Snaking down the South China Sea from the mountainous northern highlands on the border with Yunnan, China to the beachy Gulf of Thailand in the south, Vietnam contains a huge variety of things to see, do – and eat – within its serpentine frame. With nearly 30 per cent of the country’s 97 million people under the age of 30, Vietnam’s big cities are bustling with youthful energy. Ho Chi Minh City, is a whirlwind of screeching motorbikes, Soviet-style monoliths, shimmering skyscrapers, grand European plazas, street markets and shiny malls. The northern city of Hanoi is packed with culture, fascinating architecture and is a favourite with foodies, who seek out life-giving bowls of pho in the chaotic-cool Old Quarter. While beachside Danang is one of Asia’s fastest growing cities, fully WiFi-enabled, from its hip street markets to its karaoke bars to its white sand beaches.
And that’s just the start. Rolling south towards Hanoi from the border with Laos and China is a paint chart of lurching mountains, concentric rice fields, the meandering Red River and dozens of distinct ethnic minority groups, each with their own elaborate costumes and aeons-old traditions. This two-week itinerary starts in Hanoi but if your time and budget permit, you could add another few days exploring the vertiginous mountain villages and fairytale architecture of Bac Ha before heading south.
From Hanoi, this journey encompasses some of Vietnam’s biggest hitters; Halong Bay’s magical seascape of jade waters and dragon-like islands; the butter-yellow old buildings and cobbled streets of Hoi An; Nha Trang’s miles-long beaches and lively seaside scene; the bling of Ho Chi Minh City. But there are plenty of emerging spots to seek out too, from hip restaurants to near empty beaches, to some of the most stylish new hotels in Asia.
Whether you opt to bed down with a big international chain, a luxury brand or a locally owned boutique hotel, you can expect exceptional value for money (heritage hotels such as the Park Hyatt Saigon are half the price of their counterparts in Hong Kong, Singapore and Bangkok). That goes for trains, taxis and domestic flights too, while eating out is so cheap you’ll be questioning whether the waiters forgot to add something to the bill. Getting to Vietnam may take a bit more effort, but what you spend on long-haul flights you’ll more than make up for on the ground in terms of budget and unique experiences.
Hanoi
Days 1 & 2
Night markets and street eats
Vietnam Airlines has an excellent safety record, a young fleet of Boeing 787 Dreamliners and direct flights from London to Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Start your journey in the latter, throwing yourself straight into the northern city’s cacophonous night markets and moreish street foods (Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain famously dined on grilled pork noodles at the family-run Bun Cha Huong Lien cafe in the old French Quarter).
Follow in a few more famous footsteps – Charlie Chaplin, Jane Fonda, Bill Clinton, Fidel Castro – with a stay at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi (doubles from £250, B&B), a French colonial-era pile opened in 1901. Or go for something a little racier at Capella Hanoi(doubles from £290, including a champagne a la carte breakfast), an art nouveau mansion turned army barracks turned Bill Bensley-designed boutique hotel.
Riverside strolls and revolutionaries
As morning breaks, take a stroll along Hoan Kiem Lake promenade where young and old come to exercise. Catch pensioners practising tai chi under banyan trees, young topless men lifting weights and groups of aunties throwing together dance routines. Having worked up an appetite, segue to the nearby family-run Quan Pho Thin cafe for a hearty bowl of silky beef pho (noodle soup) before making your way to the manicured gardens and ornate gates of the 1000-year-old Temple of Literature.
In the 1960s, the communist revolutionary Ho Chi Minh lived in a humble stilted home that now fringes the imposing Presidential Palace and Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, where the Vietnamese hero lies in state. Buy a combined ticket to visit all three. For dinner, feast on contemporary Vietnamese dishes, such as lacquered pork ribs, caramelised clay pot fish and zingy pomelo salads at Chao Ban Vietnamese Restaurant (0084 24 3633 3435).
Halong Bay
Day 3
Seaplanes and junk boats
The wonders of Halong Bay, where looming limestone sea-stacks and dragons’ back ridges rise out of Listerine-green waters, are a two to three-hour drive from Hanoi but, if your budget allows, the most memorable way to get there is by seaplane soaking up dreamy views of the fantastical seascape as you swoop in from above. The majority of Halong Bay’s 10 million annual visitors arrive on day trips that have wrapped up by 4pm, so one way to minimise the crowds is to book an overnight cruise. Try Indochina Junks, which has a range of smaller boats, with stiff red fan sails, deluxe cabins and access to quieter coves, where you can swim and kayak.
Onwards to Hue
If you have a couple more days to spare, you could swing from Halong Bay to Ninh Binh. Nicknamed the “Inland Halong Bay”, this lesser-known corner of the country shares the same rippling limestone karsts, except here they are laced between a maze of rivers and clusters of magnificent caves. Otherwise, head back to Hanoi to catch a one-hour flight south to the ancient citadel of Hue. Book into Azerai La Residence (doubles from £140, B&B), a stylish art deco escape with an ivy-wrapped rotunda, excellent restaurants and 122 streamlined teak and brass-trimmed rooms. Spend the afternoon by the pool overlooking the Perfume River, named after the fragrant orchids that shade the waterway.
Exploring the ancient citadel
The former capital and seat of power for the Nguyen emperors from 1802 to 1945, and a flashpoint during the American War, Hue has an intriguing history that’s best extrapolated on two wheels with a local guide. The hotel can arrange a bicycle or pedicab tour (depending on your fitness levels) starting on the banks of the Perfume River, passing through the crumbling pastel-shaded village of Bao Vinh on the way to the Imperial City.
The vast walled fortress is a mesmerising puzzle of broad plumeria-lined avenues, pretty pleasure gardens, lotus flower lakes, ornate que gate towers and lavishly decorated halls packed with precious objects (more of which can be found at the air-conditioned Hue Museum of Royal Antiquities if you need a cool down). Stop for a French three-course set lunch at Les Jardines de la Carambole (0084 234 3548 815), housed in a colonial-era mansion with louvre doors, tiled floors and rosewood tables and chairs. In the afternoon, visit Thien Mu Pagoda, a fairytale-like complex of tiered towers, Buddhist prayer halls and eight-roof gates.
Danang & Hoi An
Day 6 & 7
Heritage architecture and rooftop hot spots
It’s a two-hour drive south to the young dynamic city of Danang, and another 45-minutes on to Hoi An, a bustling trading port from the 7th century to the 19th century and current Unesco World Heritage site. With a beachside setting, award-winning spa and spacious villas, Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai (doubles from £537, B&B) is the most luxurious place to stay in the area, but there are plenty of fantastic hotels at bargain prices too.
Soak up resort vibes at the Pullman Danang Beach (doubles from £110, room only) or go boutique at the Saga Hoi An (doubles from £41, B&B), in the heart of the old town. Having settled in, make your way to Hoi An Ancient Town to wander cobbled lantern-strewn streets lined with historic buildings, blue stone temples, arts and crafts shops, tailors, coffee houses and art galleries. Drink G&Ts and nibble from platters of cheese and charcuterie at scene-y rooftop bar and restaurant Market Terrace (0084 985 807 783), set above Hoi An Market.
Rose dumplings and dragons
Alongside its wonderful architecture, Hoi An is famed for its delicious food. Start your day on The Original Taste of Hoi An food tour, which begins with turmeric and pork pancakes at a local market before taking in a private home for some of Hoi An’s famous white rose dumplings and then cafes with plastic stools serving crispy banh mi and steaming bowls of pho. Back in Hoi An, while away the afternoon visiting the 500-year-old Japanese Covered Bridge, the beautifully preserved Tan Ky Old House and the Crayola-coloured Cantonese Assembly Hall.
As the sun goes down, head to Danang to see the Dragon Bridge – 666-metres of steel topped with a flying dragon sculpture – light up (at 9pm on Friday and Saturday nights, the beast also breathes fire and water). Later, make your way to An Thuong Night Market, a beachside LED-lit enclave brimming with trendy bars and restaurants, market stalls and street artists, frequented by just as many locals as visitors.
Quy Nhon
Days 8 & 9
Ride the rails
Rise and shine to ride south from Hoi An to beachy Quy Nhon on The Vietage, Anantara hotel’s luxurious custom-designed train carriage. Over six leisurely hours, guests can hit the bar for mimosas, book massages, dine on gourmet Asian-fusion cuisine and sink into wide comfortable chairs tucked behind rattan screens while the bucolic countryside flickers past like an old sepia movie reel.
This mostly undeveloped part of the coast has limited accommodation options – which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Check into a contemporary glass-fronted beach villa at the Anantara Quy Nonh (ocean pool villas from £290, B&B) or venture another half an hour down the coast to Zannier Bai San Ho (terrace villas from £310, room only), which has sweeping Vietnam Sea views, a private beach and immaculate villas that have been designed to echo the traditional homes of the Eden, Rade and Cham and tribes.
Fisherfolk and long lost kingdoms
Start your day with a stroll along the beach observing local fisherman rowing perfectly circular basket boats back into shore after a night angling for grouper, snapper, crab and squid. If you fancy trying your hand, continue to Bai Xep fishing village, where you can see the fishermen at work, learn how to do it yourself or hire a coracle to take you to a nearby white sand island.
Vijaya, near present-day Quy Nhon, was the capital of the influential Cham Kingdom for 500-years, from the late 10th century until 1471. Similar to Angkor Wat’s Khmer empire, the Cham followed a quasi-Hindu religion and built ornate temples, towers and shrines to honour the gods. While more widely spread and less well-preserved than their Cambodian counterparts, Quy Nhon has some beautiful ruins worth visiting. Start at hilltop Banh It Towers, a collection of four redbrick keeps adorned with bas-reliefs of dancers, lions, birds and flowers, before making your way downhill to the lesser-visited Canh Tien – or Fairy’s Wings Tower – on the edges of the former Vijaya citadel.
Nha Trang
Days 10 & 11
Venturing South
It’s approximately a four-hour train ride from Quy Nhon’s Dieu Tri station to the Miami-like beach town of Nha Trang onboard the red, white and blue Reunification Express, which runs between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. It’s not as fancy as The Vietage but its formica interiors and teak wood seats have plenty of retro charm.
Stay at Mia Resort Nha Trang (doubles from £130, B&B), a modernist beauty with a beachside location, sleek villas and free shuttles into town. Or continue down the coast to the peaceful seclusion of Amanoi (doubles from £673, B&B), which is set inside pristine parkland and has palatial pool villas overlooking a private sweep of silver-gold beach.
Beaches and boat trips
A 6 km scythe of silver-gold sand fronted by dreamy greeny-blue ocean, Vietnam’s most popular beach destination has plenty to keep you busy. Along the shore, you’ll find designated swimming areas, as well as dive centres and watersports rentals (jet skis, paddle-boards, parasailing, kite-surfing). Offshore, there are 19 palm-painted islets haloed by fine white beaches and coral reefs. Explore the area’s watery wonders on a 1930s-style teak boat with Emperor Cruises (£72 including lunch).
For dinner, tuck into freshly-caught prawns and hunks of honey-marinated beef at Lac Canh restaurant (0084 258 3821 391), which has been serving the best barbecue food in the city for more than 40 years. Party the rest of the night away at Sailing Clubdrinking fruity mai tais and dancing with sand between your toes.
Mui Ne
Day 12
Take it easy
There are some spectacular coastal views on the road south from Nha Trang to the more peaceful beaches of Mui Ne. Book The Anam Mui Ne (doubles from £163, B&B) which has a prime beachfront location, two swimming pools and Indochine-inspired interiors that blend intricate wood-carving with hand-painted floor tiles, ceiling cornices and silk lanterns to beautiful effect. The hotel can organise an array of activities – kite-surfing, sand dune bashing, tours of Cham ruins – or you could just wile away the afternoon flitting between the beach and the spa.
Ho Chi Minh City
Days 13 & 14
Bright lights big city
A new highway means that it’s now an easy-breezy two-and-a-half-hour drive from Mui Ne to the capital, Ho Chi Minh City. Set off early to swing by Cu Chi tunnels on the way. This termite’s nest of underground passageways, dens, hospitals and villages, sprawling over thousands of miles, embodies the tenacity of the Viet Cong in their fight against French colonialists in the 1940s and then later against the US Army during the Vietnam War (or the American War as the conflict is known here). Later, visit the sombre yet insightful War Remnants Museumto learn more about the devastating impact of the US invasion.
Spend your last night at the Park Hyatt Saigon (doubles from £240, room only). Located in District 1 close to the Opera House, Notre Dame Cathedral and the Reunification Palace, the hotel operated as a base for the American military during the Vietnam War and housed the broadcasts of DJ Adrian Cronauer, made famous in the movie, Good Morning, Vietnam.
Before your flight home, enjoy a fabulous culinary send off at Anan. The Vietnamese-American chef, Peter Cuong Franklin, cut his teeth at the triple Michelin starred Caprice in Hong Kong and has revolutionised contemporary Vietnamese cuisine, with dishes such as caviar egg pho, air baguette with pate and wagyu beef, and black cod bun noodles with turmeric and dill sauce.
How to do it
When to go
Stretching over 1,650 km (1,025 miles) from north to south, Vietnam’s weather varies according to the region, as well as the time of year. However, in general, the best time to visit is between November and April. May to October is commonly hot and humid across the country, with temperatures hovering around 30C teamed with sporadic downpours and seasonal typhoons.
What to book
Budget busting
Lightfoot Travel (0203 9505105; lightfoottravel.com) can tailor-make a 14-night luxury tour of Vietnam from £6,900 per person, B&B, including flights from London via Dubai or Doha, private transfers, an overnight Halong Bay cruise, and a number of excursions.
Cost effective
The B Corp-certified InsideAsia (0117 409 5074; insideasiatours.com) has a 13-night Ultimate Vietnam Cultural Adventure tour costing from £2,940pp, B&B, including transfers, private guiding, a Vespa street food tour, an overnight cruise in Lan Ha, a speedboat adventure through the Cu Chi tunnels. Excluding international flights.
Insider tips
Grab is South East Asia’s most popular ride hailing app and using it is the best way to avoid being ripped off by the tourist hungry taxi drivers who prowl the streets.
Haggling is a part of everyday life in Vietnam so don’t be afraid to barter with shopkeepers and at market stalls. Go in at 50 per cent of the asking price and work from there – keeping a sense of humour throughout.
Despite the scam websites and confusing international arrivals process, British travellers do not need a visa to enter Vietnam and are permitted to stay up to 45 days.
Vietnam’s airports, railways and roads can become overwhelmed to the point of gridlock during the big national holidays. Avoid Tet, which typically falls between mid-January and early February; the Mid-Autumn Children’s Festival between mid-September and early October; and the big Chinese Golden week holiday in October.
While the US dollar is widely accepted, the best currency to use in Vietnam is the Vietnamese dong. Prices are usually displayed in shops and restaurants in local currency, with a fluctuating exchange rate applied to dollars, making US currency the more expensive option.